2007 Jeep Wrangler JK Build-Up

We selected the Superlift 4″ kit because of Superlift’s reputation for quality lifts and the value of the lift. The kit includes everything needed to lift the Jeep including shocks and an adjustable front track bar. Honestly, this is probably the easiest complete lift kit to install we have encountered. The only others that would be similar in difficulty would be a CJ lift if the stock bolts weren’t rusted.

We were concerned about vibrations and wobbles, but there are absolutely none. The longer control arms from the factory make lifting the JK a lot less problematic than the TJs were. Additionally, there is no drilling required with the front track bar to cause possible slop up there. Finally, the new steering setup is much better than the older Wranglers.

Read on to the next page to see our write-up on the installation of this kit and tips to make the install go smoother.

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From time to time we have to give the Jeep to other people (for warranty service, cleaning, valet, or just loaning it out). Giving out your entire key ring with other car keys, house keys and flash drives is not a good idea. Also, if you ever loose a key it is more expensive to get a new key made when you only have one key, due to a different (dealer only) programming process that is required. We highly recommend getting a third key as a “valet” key.

Our local dealer wanted about $60 for a blank key and $35 to program a key, the local locksmith wanted to charge $35 to program any key we brought them as well. We got the key and had it cut for less than $30 total.

The following is the process to get yourself hooked up with a spare key for minimal cost. For this write up we will be using a Rock Key that works just like a factory key with the transponder, but looks and feels better. The Rock Key has the same type of transponder built in, so everything is 100% compatible with your stock Jeep.

1. Purchase a Rock Key.
2. Get your rock key cut by a local locksmith. We prefer locksmiths over Lowe’s, Wal-Mart, etc. because they are usually better trained and if the key is cut wrong you will have to buy a new one.
3. Get two of your existing keys and your new key and hop in the Jeep.
4. Insert the first key that is already programmed into the ignition switch and turn the ignition to ON for 3-15 seconds then turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
5. Insert the second key that is already programmed into the ignition switch and turn the ignition to ON within 15 seconds of removing the first key. After 10 seconds, a chime will sound and the key indicator light on the dash will begin to flash. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
6. Insert your new key which has not been programmed yet and turn the ignition to ON within one minute of removing the last key. After 10 seconds, a chime will sound and the key indicator light will stop flashing.
7. Your new key as now been programmed and should work as a normal key.

Notes: (1) The key indicator light is a little red LED light on the far right side of the instrument cluster. (2) Our Jeep didn’t chime, but the key still programmed correctly.

Our JK didn’t come with the Sirius capable stereo option (even though we were told it did when purchasing the Jeep). The dealer wanted to charge us a little under a grand for a new radio and the Sirius antenna, we said no. Luckily we had a Sirius Starmate from another vehicle that we could install. This install should be pretty much the same for any of the plug and play style Sirius or XM satellite radio units. We tried to locate the antenna as close to the factory mounting position as possible (even though we weren’t 100% sure where the factory one would go).

The antenna will be mounted on the roll bar behind the front passengers seat. There is a triangle gusset above the sound bar that has a very good flat mounting surface. Don’t worry about the roll bar padding and soft or hard top. Satellite signal can travel through cloth and fiberglass without any issues.

Step 1: Removing the top. We had the hard top on, so we had to remove the t-tops and raise the front of the hard top over the sound bar and support it with a block of wood wrapped in a cloth so it would stay a few inches off the roll bar. You could also completely remove the hard top and it would be a little easier to work. All of the Torx bolts are a T-40 size. This is the same size that TJ hard tops used as well.

Step 2: Removing trim for wiring. We will be running wiring from the dash area to the top of the roll bar. We will need to remove the glove box by opening it and pressing in on both sides so the retaining posts will clear the dash. The the plastic trim covering the threshold and B-pillar will need to be loosened enough to fit the antenna wire under them. Again, removing these pieces will make it easier to run and secure the wire. Finally, you will need to remove the padding that is around the roll bar where the antenna will be mounted and the wire will be ran. This should be everything that needs to be removed.

Step 3: Mounting the antenna. The antenna is magnetic so it is brainless to mount. We mounted ours towards the back of the plate because the hard top steps up a little before there so it will have a little more clearance.

Step 4: Running the antenna wire. This step takes the most time out of everything. You just need to be concious of any moving, sharp or hot objects the wire could be routed near. Of note are the seat belt mechanics, the very sharp metal support under the glove box and the heater lines running near the transmission hump. Just rout the wire and secure it with electrical tape or wire ties along the way. Be sure to use looming anywhere that the wire could be damaged by something sharp or hot.

Step 5: Mounting the unit. We mounted the unit in front of the 4wd shifter. There really isn’t a spot that seemed better and we wanted to be able to remove the unit if parking somewhere that it might get stolen. We ran a wire from the aux jack of the stereo to the headphone jack of the Starmate. Then plugged the cord in to the aux power jack in the dash.

That is the installation in a nutshell. It’s a simple procedure and has worked great for us so far. We still plan on purchasing a used satellite ready stereo in the future for a cleaner install, but this works for now.

If you have any questions on the install or other tips, post them in the comments.  Also, sorry for the poor picture quality; the camera was set on the wrong settings.

So you’re shopping for a JK and see that it has a factory Dana 30 hi-pinion front and Dana 44 rear. Sweet, that’s a respectable combination, with plenty of aftermarket support…..Right?

The truth is that Jeep pulled another one on us. These axles share few parts in common with the older Dana 30’s and Dana 44’s that we are all friends with. The new ones use different bearings, pinion shafts, ring gears and carriers. None of the old Dana 30 or Dana 44 gears, lockers, carriers, yokes, etc. will work with this new set up.

The Rubicon is another exception. It uses 32 spline Dana 44 chromoly axles front and rear. That should be a great set up. But again, there is a lacking of any aftermarket gears for them.

Within a couple months we expect to see some of the first aftermarket gears for various JK applications. Lockers on the other hand are usually slower to be released, so who knows. I would look to ARB for the first releases (they are usually the fastest to release new apps).

Jeep JK Wrangler Axles:

• Front (X and Sahara)
• High Pinion 27 Spline Dana 30
• Rear (X and Sahara)
• Standard Cut 30 Spline Dana 44
• Standard Cut 27 Spline Dana 35 (2 Door without towing package)
• Front (Rubicon)
• High Pinion 32 Spline Dana 44
• Electric locker (open when switched off)
• Rear (Rubicon)
• Low Pinion 32 Spline Dana 44
• Electic locker (open when switched off)

Regearing your JK will be beneficial once it is lifted with some bigger meats. Here are our recommendations for a ratio:

stock-33″ Tires: 4.10 (stock)
35″ Tires: 4.56
37-38″ Tires: 4.88
40″ Tires: 5.13

These ratios will keep you close to the same RPMs as a stock JK with 32 inch tires and 4.10 gears. We know that not all JKs come with that combination, but many do come with something close to that and it works well. Also, you will usually want to gear a little aggressive to help make up for the extra rotational mass of larger tires.

See the cart below (courtesy of Superlift):

Note: RPMs may not reflect your actual RPMs due to different transmission gearing.

Our first complaint seems kind of cheesy. But if you ride in a JK, you will probably understand.

The headrests seem to have a rockwell hardness of about 75. Additionally, they are tilted forward to a point where they almost touch your head while sitting normal. The fact that you can lean your head back just a little and relax on the headrest is nice, until you hit a bump. As soon as you hit a bump and your head hits the headrest it sucks. I don’t think I have ever felt a headrest this hard.

We aren’t all complaints… There is a good thing about the headrests. In the back seat of the 4 door models, when you fold the seat forward the headrests fold back automatically when they hit the front seat. This works a lot better than the system on our WJ.

If you know why Jeep makes them like this, let us know in the comments.

It seems like a good aftermarket product would be better headrests.

The 2007 Wranglers include ESP and electronic roll mitigation. The new systems allow the Jeep to sense when there are dangerous driving conditions and to correct for oversteer, understeer or conditions where the Jeep might roll. The Jeep does this by applying brakes to individual wheels to improve handling.

If you’re like me, this doesn’t matter a whole lot. I never had a problem with older Jeeps (that were made within the last 20 years). The one thing that does make a difference to people like me are the changes in brake hardware.

The rear uses individual brake hoses that come from the frame to the calipers on each side. In fact, these hoses are the same front to rear. The bad news is that when you buy extended brake hoses it will cost a little more. The good news is that one hose will cover the front or rear if you want to carry a trail spare.

Also, you can see in this picture that the bump stop has been moved outside of the coil spring.

Welcome to the first post of our project.

We have just acquired a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited X. It’s a pretty base model with the S package, hard top, auto trans and SIRIUS radio. The goal is to make this Jeep more capable than a Rubicon package for less money.

So far, the plans are for:

• Superlift 4 inch lift kit
• 37×13.50×20 Pit Bull Rocker tires
• Auburn ECTED electric lockers (We have since determined that these don’t applicate the JK…YET)
  
• Superior 4.88 gears — EDIT: Let’s make it 5.13 gears!
• Superior alloy axle shafts
• Tuffy center console insert

We are looking for suggestions for other mods including bumpers and wheels. Please leave your suggestions as a comment on this article.