2007 Jeep Wrangler JK Build-Up 2007 Jeep Wrangler goes from Mild to Wild

2007 Wrangler JK Lift Kit Install

We selected the Superlift 4″ kit because of Superlift’s reputation for quality lifts and the value of the lift. The kit includes everything needed to lift the Jeep including shocks and an adjustable front track bar. Honestly, this is probably the easiest complete lift kit to install we have encountered. The only others that would be similar in difficulty would be a CJ lift if the stock bolts weren’t rusted.

We were concerned about vibrations and wobbles, but there are absolutely none. The longer control arms from the factory make lifting the JK a lot less problematic than the TJs were. Additionally, there is no drilling required with the front track bar to cause possible slop up there. Finally, the new steering setup is much better than the older Wranglers.

Read on to the next page to see our write-up on the installation of this kit and tips to make the install go smoother.

Installing the Kit

Tools Needed:

• 17/64 Drill Bit
• 13/64 Drill Bit
• 1/2″ Drill Bit
• Torque Wrench
• SAE and Metric sockets and wrenches

Notes about tools: Pretty much all of the stock bolts are metric and pretty much all of the hardware in the kit is SAE. A large portion of the stock bolts are 18mm. Make sure your drill bits are all very sharp or new.

For the disassembly, you basically follow the instructions. We removed everything from both sides at the same time and then let the axle down as far as it would go. The spring should come out pretty easily.

When installing the bump stop spacer to the pad on the axle make sure to drill the hole with a sharp bit that will not make the hole larger than the bit. Using an oil like WD-40 will help keep your bit cool and last longer. To install the self taping bolt you will need to use a drill of some sort or air ratchet. Again, using WD-40 with the self-tapping bolts will help.

To press in the longer bump stop rubbers, it is best to grease the top lip of the bump stop a little and then raise the axle to press them in to the cups. Another method would be to use a small bottle jack between the axle pad and bump stop. Jacking up the axle to seat the bump stops works best.

Installing the coil springs is next. This is tricky because of the spacers you have already bolted to the spring pad on the axle. It is easiest to do one side at a time and lift the opposite end of the axle to make the side you are working on drop a little more. Be careful not to over-extend the brake hoses or break a hard line here. The brake hoses limited our axle travel more than anything and there wasn’t much give on the hard lines.

From there you just need to follow the instructions. Installing the hourglass bushings in the shocks is MUCH easier if you grease them a little. They will push in easily by hand when greased. You will need to install the steel sleeves inside of all the hourglass bushings.

Rear Installation

The rear is pretty straight forward. One word of caution you will need to keep the axle supported with a jack to keep the new rear coil springs seated while preforming the rest of the install after the springs. The rear suspension has an amazing amount of travel.

When you get to installing the track bar bracket we recommend running the new bolt through the new and old bracket, making sure the holes and all lined up and then using vice grips to secure the new bracket to the old one. Then you can take out the bolt and drill the 1/2″ hole with the new bracket still in place to help guide the bit. We did this (after sharpening the very dull bit) and the process worked perfect.

Rerouting the e-brake cables was pretty straight forward. We had to trim some of the foam off of our cables to allow the bracket to be mounted where they needed to be. Be sure to take your time and be careful when disconnecting the cables from the axle. Breaking the tabs on the retainers is not good.

Wrapping Up

That’s the install in a nutshell. There is more to it, but the instructions are very clear on everything so we just hit some pointers along the way. After installing the kit we double checked all the torques, adjusted the track bar and cam bolts enough to make it to the alignment shop and re-centered the steering wheel.

The entire install took us about 4 hours working at a leisurely pace. If you haven’t done a lift before, more time will likely be required.

When you get an alignment, only get a front end alignment, there is nothing to align with the rear end, but a lot of shops will still charge you for it. If you point out the adjustable track bar and cam bolts the alignment shop should adjust both for you — though they might charge a little extra for doing the track bar.